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Logitech G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel and Floor Pedals, Real Force Feedback, Stainless Steel Paddle Shifters, Leather Steering Wheel Cover for…
Immersive Gaming Experience: Perfect for Xbox and PC gaming titles, the Driving Force simulates the feeling of driving a real car with precision steering and pressure-sensitive pedals
Premium Control: The Driving Force feedback racing wheel provides a detailed simulation of driving a real car, with helical gearing delivering smooth, quiet steering and a hand-stitched leather cover
Customizable Pedals: These pressure-sensitive nonlinear brake pedals provide a responsive, accurate braking feel on a sturdy base – with adjustable pedal faces for finer control
900-Degree Rotation: Lock-to-lock rotation of the Driving Force means you can turn the wheel around two and a half times, hand over hand on wide turns – just like a real F1 race car
Up Your Game: Take your racing simulation to the next level with Driving Force accessories like the Driving Force Shifter or desk and rig mounts
The plastic parts in G920 include 52% certified post consumer recycled plastic*; certified carbon neutral
Wheel: Length: 10.24 in (260 mm) Height: 10.63 in (270 mm) Width: 10.94 in (278 mm) Weight without cables: 4.96 lb (2.25 Kg) Pedals: Length: 16.87 in (428.5 mm) Height: 6.57 in (167 mm) Width: 12.24 in (311 mm) Weight without cables: 6.83 (3.1 Kg)
Specification: Logitech G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel and Floor Pedals, Real Force Feedback, Stainless Steel Paddle Shifters, Leather Steering Wheel Cover for…
Brand
Logitech G
Series
Logitech G920
Item model number
941-000121
Hardware Platform
PC
Operating System
xbox series x
Item Weight
4.96 pounds
Product Dimensions
10.24 x 10.94 x 10.63 inches
Item Dimensions LxWxH
10.24 x 10.94 x 10.63 inches
Color
Black
Number of Processors
4
Batteries
1 Lithium Metal batteries required.
Manufacturer
Logitech
Country of Origin
China
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer
No
Date First Available
June 18, 2015
7 reviews for Logitech G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel and Floor Pedals, Real Force Feedback, Stainless Steel Paddle Shifters, Leather Steering Wheel Cover for…
4.6out of 5
★★★★★
★★★★★
4
★★★★★
3
★★★★★
0
★★★★★
0
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0
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★★★★★
Brenton Ives –
I got into Sim racing only pretty recently and this is my first racing wheel. Having used it for several months now I don’t regret the purchase at all, for the price.
The brake pedal does take a lot of force to fully depress if you don’t change any settings, but you can easily go into Windows control panel and calibrate the brake to not require so much force:
Right-click the wheel in Devices and Printers, choose Game controller settings > Properties > Settings tab > Calibrate. It will have you turn the wheel all 900 degrees to get the range of motion dialed in, then fully depress the gas pedal and continue. When you get to the brake pedal calibration after the throttle, just press it 50% – 75% of the way down and release, then continue. This will make Windows think the pedal has been pressed all the way down and this will now be the required amount of force to fully activate braking.
Doing this trick will carry over into whatever game you are playing. If you’re like me you will probably run through this process many many times until you have it dialed in exactly where you want it. You can do this for the throttle and the clutch as well but I don’t know why you’d want to.
I am currently using this at a normal desk and office chair with wheels that will slide around on the hardwood floor when pressing the brake. The pedals are fairly sticky to the hardwood on their own, but depending on your seating angle and how hard you have to push the brakes, the pedals may slip a bit. this was fixed by putting a $10 rubber mat from Canadian Tire under it. You can even just put something heavy behind it and you’re good to go. Just had to put some rubber pads under the wheels of my chair and now I remain nice and stationary even when slamming the brakes into monza t1 in Assetto Corsa. I’m still planning on getting a rig like a Playseat or Wheel Stand Pro when I have the space for it at home. I have a hunch this will greatly improve the experience with the pedals.
Force feedback seems OK for a beginner purchase, but I don’t have any experience with a belt-driven or DD wheel for comparison. I have spent a lot of time in the logitech software and the Assetto Corsa settings learning about and configuring the force feedback and while it’s still not exactly where I want it yet, it is very customizable. Do yourself a favour and google Brian Koponen G920 setup guides to get an idea of what each setting does and how to get the best results in-game – specifically when it comes to the force feedback. He’s made excellent guides for many racing games like Forza, Dirt, PC2, the F1 series, Grid, and ACC, among others.
The Windows 10 driver install is a bit wonky if you let find and install automatically. Some games wouldn’t recognize the wheel with the default setup, but as another review on this page laid out very well, you can fix it quite easily by doing a manual driver install.
Bottom line – this is a good first wheel for racers ready to upgrade from their xbox controller, if you don’t mind putting some effort into the configuration. Happy racing
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★★★★★
Old Bear –
We had the wheel for a few months when it started to not auto-centre without first turning it all the way to the left before plugging it in. It also kept moving the centre to the right and the force feedback was fighting any turn to the left past centre.
But Logitech support was great and helped me to try to diagnose it – they wound up sending us a replacement free of charge.
I like the feel of the wheel and pedals – the brake pedal is too stiff but there are lots of videos about how to modify that for free or cheap. Our cheaper unit has a gear shift but fewer buttons, and only two pedals – I like to use manual transmissions in BeamNG. I wish it powered over the USB rather than needing a seperate power supply. Once everything works with G-Hub it is easy to adjust and use – easy enough for my kids or wife to hook up without the dad tech help.
Helpful(0)Unhelpful(0)You have already voted this
★★★★★
Matt In Boston –
I use this steering wheel and pedals with F1-22 sim racing on Windows-10/Steam. This is a decent set of entry-level controls.
Firstly I have to talk about the metal plate I had to buy. The wheel housing clamps to a desktop or similar surface. The plastic feet that grab onto the underside of the desktop are too small. My desktop is simply a door, and it is not structurally strong enough to handle the forces applied by the small feet during driving fast transitions like chicanes. The feet dig into the door surface and delaminated it. Also the wobble of the attachment made it difficult to dial in the exact steering angle needed (e.g. lightning quick counter-steer when oversteer crops up). Eventually I figured out I need a steel plate 0.25″ x 12″ x 4″ (https://a.co/d/aBgHnBD) under the door, which spreads the forces from the feet across a larger area of the underside of the door. That gave me a solid mounting that does not stress the door. Problem solved.
The force feedback of the wheel seems pretty good. And the buttons works reliably. By the way, I wear thin driving gloves for optimal grip.
The pedals are good. They have springs only, no variable feedback. Again, the pedal mounting is crucial. My desk chair sits on a 0.25″ plastic floor liner. I had to drill holes in that liner and attach the pedals with thumbscrews. You need a solid mounting for the pedal housing, or it will slide all over the place. You want to have a large range of force to dial in braking, especially for simulated F1 5g threshold braking at corner entry. The pedals can take a lot of force, which does simulate what real racing car brakes require. I wear hospital socks with grip on the sole.
I’m not sure whether F1-22 has a limitation or it’s the wheel. But there is NO tactile feedback for incipient understeer or oversteer. That definitely makes it difficult to drive at the limit, which is exactly what you need to do to be fast. By the time oversteer occurs, it’s already too late to counter-steer and correct it, and I have fast reactions. Maybe higher-end rigs solve this?
I do not like how every time my computer comes out of sleep, the wheel calibrates by spinning lock to lock. Can be dangerous. You do not want your fingers in the wheel when that happens. Nor do you want any item to accidentally sit in the wheel when calibration starts; could be a disaster. It would be much better if the calibration was postponed until you actually enter the game.
Helpful(0)Unhelpful(0)You have already voted this
★★★★★
Nick –
Grabbed this as a birthday present to myself, and at first was having issues. I then remembered I needed to have the Logitec G-Hub installed for calibrating and over all communicating with the computer to the race game. One can also adjust the sensitivity, and force feed back of the wheel and pedals, as well as in game but between the G-hub and in game tweaks, precision can be dialed in. After that was set up the first thing I realized was all the tunes I made in Forza were basically for controller use with not having to spin a wheel around and just flick a stick 1cm left or right. I needed to make adjustments to my tunes for better handling, and even went back a class or 2 to get used to everything. A few weeks later I grabbed i mounting stand as a Christmas present to myself, as it was a bit tedious to to have to set it up every time, then tear down to do any work on the computer. Now I just gotta slide it in front of the monitor, put the wheel chalks I made for my computer chair in place so its doesn’t roll and boom, set up. Works great with Forza 4/5 and WRC 8/9.(and assuming the later versions are good too). Also I hate for this to seem like a plug, but check out Amazon games, they do give away bangers sometimes…for example…WRC 8 and 9. Its very slim pickin’s mostly but the fact they gave these away at one point saved me $100 and i get to live out my wet dreams. One thing I will say is, don’t forget to unplug it when your done, or it will calibrate every time your computer starts/wakes up. 450° to the left, 900° to the right, 450° back to center with a violent stop each time, not good if ppl are sleeping or you live in an apartment with paper thin walls and its 4am…or both. Scared the living piss outta me the first time. Hope this helps.
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★★★★★
Client pas content –
Easy to use, look good, good quality The force feed back is a bit less powerfull than High-end driving wheel but it’s a very good chose
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★★★★★
Ian –
It works great, only the wheel is a bit small.
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★★★★★
LegoDad –
Alright, I’ll preface this by saying I’m not a racing sim person. Never have been. I’d gotten an earlier version of Forza for the Xbox 360 out of curiosity, and my son enjoyed it a bit, but neither of us really got into it, being into first person shooters instead on the consoles…
But in April I grabbed an Oculus Rift, and of course one of the things I ultimately had to try was a racing game, and it really turned it into a different experience. Enough that I decided I needed to try a wheel and pedals to control it, not just the Xbox controller. So I did some digging, and this was the one that seemed to hit the right price point and was supported in the Project Cars game I have on the Oculus system.
Setting up couldn’t be much easier – I was clamping it to my PC stand (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BBKNI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and that actually worked quite well, but I did end up just ordering an actual racing wheel stand this evening to improve the experience. The only thing I would’ve wanted them to change is to have some kind of plate or bar on the bottom to help hold all the cables in place as you’re getting things set up. There are small channels underneath this, where they run, so they’re recessed and this sits flat on the surface you’re clamping it to. But I had issues with a short cable getting pulled out the first time I was setting things up. Having something that slid over that to help keep them in place would’ve been nice. But it’s a minor annoyance, wasn’t even worth dropping a star.
So once you get things plugged into this, you can connect it to power, but don’t plug into the PC until you’ve installed the software, which will then prompt you to connect the USB cable. I did this on Windows 10, and had no issues.
There was a firmware update right away, so I ran that as well. Then it was time to play.
Project Cars in the Oculus had support for this, so that’s what I tried first, and then realized that this is apparently a game that reverses the pedals by default, so I had to go into the options and remap all three pedals to get it to work. But once I did that, I was quite blown away by the experience.
Having never used a racing wheel before, I didn’t expect the force holding the wheel in place. I expected force feedback as things happened, but I didn’t realize how firmly this wheel was going to hold the center position. But it’s awesome since it really helps keep you stable.
Most of the video reviews and such talked about how it takes time to convert from a controller to a wheel, and that you can expect to “relearn” since it’s a whole different experience. I didn’t have that issue, since my racing sim gaming was so minimal. I took to it quite quickly, and inside of about three or four races, I had a good feel for it, and my performance soared compared to the hand held controller.
Many people complain about the bright light on the wheel above the Xbox button. For me, not an issue since I have a headset on for the VR system, but I can see how that would be annoying if you’re using monitors. Nothing a bit of tape wouldn’t solve, but I think the least they could have done is had an option in the software settings to turn the light off altogether.
Button placement is alright, I wish they had been a little closer to the wheel’s edges to make it easier to hit, but they’re not hard to get at as they are, just not quite as ergonomic as I would’ve hoped.
Unit is pretty quiet as well.
I see a lot of people complain about the brake pedal being stiff, and it certainly is, compared to the others, but for me it isn’t an issue. I may not know enough about these though to have the “right feel” for how it SHOULD be, and that may be why it doesn’t bother me. But as a total racing sim tyro, it’s not causing me any issues at all.
For me, this really became a “Wow, I’m sure glad I got this!” kind of an item the first day I had it. With the VR headset, this really completes the immersion. And when it’s on this desk I’m using right now, and I”m on the bench in front of the setup, my hands are EXACTLY where they show up in the Oculus, so the illusion is complete for me.
Feels great, love the resistance in turns since that really helps me keep on track and not spin out as much, and while the price seems steep to me, I didn’t have many options considering I’m on a Windows 10 PC and may use it on the Xbox One as well at some point. But while the price was steep, I’m looking at it as one of those, “You get what you pay for” things. It completes the illusion of actually racing, and that made the price point less of an issue for me.
Brenton Ives –
I got into Sim racing only pretty recently and this is my first racing wheel. Having used it for several months now I don’t regret the purchase at all, for the price.
The brake pedal does take a lot of force to fully depress if you don’t change any settings, but you can easily go into Windows control panel and calibrate the brake to not require so much force:
Right-click the wheel in Devices and Printers, choose Game controller settings > Properties > Settings tab > Calibrate. It will have you turn the wheel all 900 degrees to get the range of motion dialed in, then fully depress the gas pedal and continue. When you get to the brake pedal calibration after the throttle, just press it 50% – 75% of the way down and release, then continue. This will make Windows think the pedal has been pressed all the way down and this will now be the required amount of force to fully activate braking.
Doing this trick will carry over into whatever game you are playing. If you’re like me you will probably run through this process many many times until you have it dialed in exactly where you want it. You can do this for the throttle and the clutch as well but I don’t know why you’d want to.
I am currently using this at a normal desk and office chair with wheels that will slide around on the hardwood floor when pressing the brake. The pedals are fairly sticky to the hardwood on their own, but depending on your seating angle and how hard you have to push the brakes, the pedals may slip a bit. this was fixed by putting a $10 rubber mat from Canadian Tire under it. You can even just put something heavy behind it and you’re good to go. Just had to put some rubber pads under the wheels of my chair and now I remain nice and stationary even when slamming the brakes into monza t1 in Assetto Corsa. I’m still planning on getting a rig like a Playseat or Wheel Stand Pro when I have the space for it at home. I have a hunch this will greatly improve the experience with the pedals.
Force feedback seems OK for a beginner purchase, but I don’t have any experience with a belt-driven or DD wheel for comparison. I have spent a lot of time in the logitech software and the Assetto Corsa settings learning about and configuring the force feedback and while it’s still not exactly where I want it yet, it is very customizable. Do yourself a favour and google Brian Koponen G920 setup guides to get an idea of what each setting does and how to get the best results in-game – specifically when it comes to the force feedback. He’s made excellent guides for many racing games like Forza, Dirt, PC2, the F1 series, Grid, and ACC, among others.
The Windows 10 driver install is a bit wonky if you let find and install automatically. Some games wouldn’t recognize the wheel with the default setup, but as another review on this page laid out very well, you can fix it quite easily by doing a manual driver install.
Bottom line – this is a good first wheel for racers ready to upgrade from their xbox controller, if you don’t mind putting some effort into the configuration. Happy racing
Old Bear –
We had the wheel for a few months when it started to not auto-centre without first turning it all the way to the left before plugging it in. It also kept moving the centre to the right and the force feedback was fighting any turn to the left past centre.
But Logitech support was great and helped me to try to diagnose it – they wound up sending us a replacement free of charge.
I like the feel of the wheel and pedals – the brake pedal is too stiff but there are lots of videos about how to modify that for free or cheap. Our cheaper unit has a gear shift but fewer buttons, and only two pedals – I like to use manual transmissions in BeamNG. I wish it powered over the USB rather than needing a seperate power supply. Once everything works with G-Hub it is easy to adjust and use – easy enough for my kids or wife to hook up without the dad tech help.
Matt In Boston –
I use this steering wheel and pedals with F1-22 sim racing on Windows-10/Steam. This is a decent set of entry-level controls.
Firstly I have to talk about the metal plate I had to buy. The wheel housing clamps to a desktop or similar surface. The plastic feet that grab onto the underside of the desktop are too small. My desktop is simply a door, and it is not structurally strong enough to handle the forces applied by the small feet during driving fast transitions like chicanes. The feet dig into the door surface and delaminated it. Also the wobble of the attachment made it difficult to dial in the exact steering angle needed (e.g. lightning quick counter-steer when oversteer crops up). Eventually I figured out I need a steel plate 0.25″ x 12″ x 4″ (https://a.co/d/aBgHnBD) under the door, which spreads the forces from the feet across a larger area of the underside of the door. That gave me a solid mounting that does not stress the door. Problem solved.
The force feedback of the wheel seems pretty good. And the buttons works reliably. By the way, I wear thin driving gloves for optimal grip.
The pedals are good. They have springs only, no variable feedback. Again, the pedal mounting is crucial. My desk chair sits on a 0.25″ plastic floor liner. I had to drill holes in that liner and attach the pedals with thumbscrews. You need a solid mounting for the pedal housing, or it will slide all over the place. You want to have a large range of force to dial in braking, especially for simulated F1 5g threshold braking at corner entry. The pedals can take a lot of force, which does simulate what real racing car brakes require. I wear hospital socks with grip on the sole.
I’m not sure whether F1-22 has a limitation or it’s the wheel. But there is NO tactile feedback for incipient understeer or oversteer. That definitely makes it difficult to drive at the limit, which is exactly what you need to do to be fast. By the time oversteer occurs, it’s already too late to counter-steer and correct it, and I have fast reactions. Maybe higher-end rigs solve this?
I do not like how every time my computer comes out of sleep, the wheel calibrates by spinning lock to lock. Can be dangerous. You do not want your fingers in the wheel when that happens. Nor do you want any item to accidentally sit in the wheel when calibration starts; could be a disaster. It would be much better if the calibration was postponed until you actually enter the game.
Nick –
Grabbed this as a birthday present to myself, and at first was having issues. I then remembered I needed to have the Logitec G-Hub installed for calibrating and over all communicating with the computer to the race game. One can also adjust the sensitivity, and force feed back of the wheel and pedals, as well as in game but between the G-hub and in game tweaks, precision can be dialed in. After that was set up the first thing I realized was all the tunes I made in Forza were basically for controller use with not having to spin a wheel around and just flick a stick 1cm left or right. I needed to make adjustments to my tunes for better handling, and even went back a class or 2 to get used to everything. A few weeks later I grabbed i mounting stand as a Christmas present to myself, as it was a bit tedious to to have to set it up every time, then tear down to do any work on the computer. Now I just gotta slide it in front of the monitor, put the wheel chalks I made for my computer chair in place so its doesn’t roll and boom, set up. Works great with Forza 4/5 and WRC 8/9.(and assuming the later versions are good too). Also I hate for this to seem like a plug, but check out Amazon games, they do give away bangers sometimes…for example…WRC 8 and 9. Its very slim pickin’s mostly but the fact they gave these away at one point saved me $100 and i get to live out my wet dreams. One thing I will say is, don’t forget to unplug it when your done, or it will calibrate every time your computer starts/wakes up. 450° to the left, 900° to the right, 450° back to center with a violent stop each time, not good if ppl are sleeping or you live in an apartment with paper thin walls and its 4am…or both. Scared the living piss outta me the first time. Hope this helps.
Client pas content –
Easy to use, look good, good quality
The force feed back is a bit less powerfull than
High-end driving wheel but it’s a very good chose
Ian –
It works great, only the wheel is a bit small.
LegoDad –
Alright, I’ll preface this by saying I’m not a racing sim person. Never have been. I’d gotten an earlier version of Forza for the Xbox 360 out of curiosity, and my son enjoyed it a bit, but neither of us really got into it, being into first person shooters instead on the consoles…
But in April I grabbed an Oculus Rift, and of course one of the things I ultimately had to try was a racing game, and it really turned it into a different experience. Enough that I decided I needed to try a wheel and pedals to control it, not just the Xbox controller. So I did some digging, and this was the one that seemed to hit the right price point and was supported in the Project Cars game I have on the Oculus system.
Setting up couldn’t be much easier – I was clamping it to my PC stand (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BBKNI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and that actually worked quite well, but I did end up just ordering an actual racing wheel stand this evening to improve the experience. The only thing I would’ve wanted them to change is to have some kind of plate or bar on the bottom to help hold all the cables in place as you’re getting things set up. There are small channels underneath this, where they run, so they’re recessed and this sits flat on the surface you’re clamping it to. But I had issues with a short cable getting pulled out the first time I was setting things up. Having something that slid over that to help keep them in place would’ve been nice. But it’s a minor annoyance, wasn’t even worth dropping a star.
So once you get things plugged into this, you can connect it to power, but don’t plug into the PC until you’ve installed the software, which will then prompt you to connect the USB cable. I did this on Windows 10, and had no issues.
There was a firmware update right away, so I ran that as well. Then it was time to play.
Project Cars in the Oculus had support for this, so that’s what I tried first, and then realized that this is apparently a game that reverses the pedals by default, so I had to go into the options and remap all three pedals to get it to work. But once I did that, I was quite blown away by the experience.
Having never used a racing wheel before, I didn’t expect the force holding the wheel in place. I expected force feedback as things happened, but I didn’t realize how firmly this wheel was going to hold the center position. But it’s awesome since it really helps keep you stable.
Most of the video reviews and such talked about how it takes time to convert from a controller to a wheel, and that you can expect to “relearn” since it’s a whole different experience. I didn’t have that issue, since my racing sim gaming was so minimal. I took to it quite quickly, and inside of about three or four races, I had a good feel for it, and my performance soared compared to the hand held controller.
Many people complain about the bright light on the wheel above the Xbox button. For me, not an issue since I have a headset on for the VR system, but I can see how that would be annoying if you’re using monitors. Nothing a bit of tape wouldn’t solve, but I think the least they could have done is had an option in the software settings to turn the light off altogether.
Button placement is alright, I wish they had been a little closer to the wheel’s edges to make it easier to hit, but they’re not hard to get at as they are, just not quite as ergonomic as I would’ve hoped.
Unit is pretty quiet as well.
I see a lot of people complain about the brake pedal being stiff, and it certainly is, compared to the others, but for me it isn’t an issue. I may not know enough about these though to have the “right feel” for how it SHOULD be, and that may be why it doesn’t bother me. But as a total racing sim tyro, it’s not causing me any issues at all.
For me, this really became a “Wow, I’m sure glad I got this!” kind of an item the first day I had it. With the VR headset, this really completes the immersion. And when it’s on this desk I’m using right now, and I”m on the bench in front of the setup, my hands are EXACTLY where they show up in the Oculus, so the illusion is complete for me.
Feels great, love the resistance in turns since that really helps me keep on track and not spin out as much, and while the price seems steep to me, I didn’t have many options considering I’m on a Windows 10 PC and may use it on the Xbox One as well at some point. But while the price was steep, I’m looking at it as one of those, “You get what you pay for” things. It completes the illusion of actually racing, and that made the price point less of an issue for me.